Tō-ji Temple, Kyoto

Tō-ji Temple (Kyō-ō-gokoku-ji, 教王護国寺) is impressive by the sheer weight of its history. Its Buddhas have been watching over the city of Kyoto ever since Kukai founded the temple in 796. The city's religious foundations were laid here, and teh echoes of bygone rituals seem to linger in Tō-ji hallowed halls.

Kukai turned Tō-ji into the main headquarters of Shignon Buddhism. The sect's esoteric rituals relied heavily on mandalas, and in the Kodo (lecture hall), 21 statues form a three-dimensional mandala, at the center of which is Dainichi Nyorai, the cosmic Buddha who first expounded the esoteric teachings. About 1,200 years old, these and other major images were carved from single blocks of wood.

Yakushi Nyorai, the Buddha of healing, and his attendants Gakko and Nikko, are enshrined in the two-story Kondo (main hall). First built in 796, the present structure dates from 1603 and is considered a masterpiece.

Rebuilt in 1644, Tō-ji 's magnificent five-story pagoda - at 180-feet, the tallest wooden structure in Japan - has become a symbol of Kyoto. Inside are images of four Buddhas and their followers.

Northwest of the Kodo is the Miei-do or Taishi-do (great teacher's hall) where Kukai lived. It houses a Secret Buddha, a Fudo Myo-o image, shown on rare occasions, as well as an image of Kukai. A National Treasure, the graceful structure dates from 1380.

Kukai's death is commemorated on the 21st of each month, when a flew market called Kobo-san by the locals, is held in the temple precincts. Many shoppers take time out for a brief pilgrimage to the Miei-do, where they offer money and incense, some rubbing the incense smoke onto whatever body part is troubling them.